Bangers n' mash go down well
Mar. 16, 2007 12:00 AM
Churchill's Pub & Grill
2050 N. Alma School Road, Chandler
(480) 857-9444
When I was dispatched to Churchill's, I was not expecting culinary prowess. I know London's restaurant scene is getting to be world-class, but this is Chandler, remember.
True to my suspicions, the lunch menu was laced with the likes of bangers n' mash, fish and chips and takes on shepherd's pie. The execution, however, made me rethink any ideas about "British cuisine" being an oxymoron.
Just as I wouldn't go to a hot dog joint and try a chicken sandwich, I figured I'd stick with the representative main dishes. I went with the bangers n' mash ($7.99), and my dining partner got the beef and British ale pie ($8.99).
My four good-size bangers (pork sausages) had a lovely amount of pepper and spice and were delicately browned to a slight crisp. The mash (mashed potatoes) were so creamy and buttery, the brown gravy was almost unnecessary. The pie was topped with a masterful puff pastry square that flaked perfectly and melted in the mouth. Underneath, tender slow-cooked beef and mushrooms swam in gravy with a zesty beer flavor from the Tetley Pub Ale. My friend couldn't stop raving about the beer-battered fries, either.
Though the portions were huge, we found room to share house-made bread n' butter pudding ($5.50), a lighter version than usual. The fluffy consistency made the dish different enough to want again and again. Our server, a man with an actual British accent, was efficient and friendly. The atmosphere, complete with Union Jacks and football banners, was somewhat bar-like, but bright and smoke-free. In addition to British cuisine - there, I said it again - entrees include steaks, chops and an all-you-can-eat snow crab dinner for $23.99 on Monday nights.
- Geri Koeppel
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